Ladies Fashion History

Ladies fashion history spans from 1784 when frilly floor-length hoop skirts were the rage to 1960 when miniskirts and Hollywood glam reigned supreme. During the Roaring Twenties, women’s fashion softly transitioned from the boyish look of the previous decade into feminine silhouettes that were inspired by the new technology of bias cut—a method of cutting fabric that creates a seamless appearance and emphasizes the curves of a woman’s body. The 1930s saw the rise of glamorous movie stars like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich who set new standards for fashion with their androgynous looks and classic elegance. This is also the decade that saw the first mass production of nylon and introduced new innovative materials such as lycra, acrylics, and vinyl. Designers such as Mary Quant and Andre Courreges made pants and short dresses fashionable for women.

When World War I began, hemlines dropped to a more conservative level. Women needed to focus on household chores, visiting wounded soldiers, and attending memorial services. This brought a sense of seriousness to clothing styles, and the bright pastel colors that were popular in earlier decades were replaced with darker hues. The hemlines were also shortened as women became more active. This was the era that saw the birth of sportswear for women, as athletes and female tennis stars encouraged women to adopt the same sporty clothing they wore. A notable style was the “La Garconne,” a long, pleated dress that was a style inspired by the androgynous look of men’s suits. This was the time when the fashion icon Coco Chanel became a name synonymous with elegance and sophistication.

The early 1870s saw a return to the tighter princess line of dress, and as this style was favored for girls, young girls echoed the fashions of adult women, often wearing padded bustles (Fig. 3) and the same heavy trim that their mothers had worn (Rose 85). Embroidery, lace, or braid was frequently used in these garments, often echoing the trim on the skirt. The narrower sleeves were emphasized with puffs that imitated the slashing of the lace and other embellishments (Fig. 4) (Olian 84).

In addition to the narrower silhouette, corsetry became more important as the fashionable nipped waistline was sought. The use of machine-made net was a novelty at the time, and the insertion of slender ribbons into the bodice also contributed to the appearance of the nipped waistline (Fig. 5).

In the early 1920s, designers such as Jeanne Lanvin created a feminine and romantic style that featured dresses with a full hemline. The sleeveless, knee-length shift dresses were inspired by the popularity of women playing tennis. These dresses were trimmed with ruffles and other ornaments that echoed the colors of the skirt, creating a style that was both elegant and modern (Fig. 6). By the late 1920s, hemlines had risen to mid-calf length. The sleeveless shift dress became a symbol of femininity and Hollywood glamour that was seen by the public when film stars appeared in these garments.